Tuvalu is a tiny nation in the South Pacific, halfway between Hawaii and Australia. Its three islands and six atolls are home to fewer than twelve thousand people, making it one of the smallest countries in the world. It’s also one of the least visited. Few planes land at the lone airport, constructed by the U.S. military during World War II. Because the airport takes up 30 percent of the country’s arable land, people often gather on the runway for pig roasts and other social activities. During spring high tides, salt water seeps up from the ground and pools on the tarmac.