its rainbows make postcards to fly home its vastness crows fly the ranger explains the equation between altitude and latitude he tantalizes with stories of the north so much higher so high everything on the kaibab plateau has flora and fauna of the canadian rockies plus a squirrel found nowhere else this squirrel black and white is sometimes mistaken for a skunk birch trees spruce quaking aspens populate the density of forests not pinon pine my son and i absorb lessons around the flames of the fire and he begins to put on the pressure he wants to get to the other side of the grand canyon he wants us to ride burros down to the bottom along a thin trail of next to nothing on one side under the burros’ feet gravel slips sideways and all the way down the fact is my son is only ten and needs to be eleven to legally go on this trip he wants to talk me into lying about his age he knows i’ve done it before this time it’s his idea i tell him the reason for this rule is insurance the insurance won’t cover if something happens and they find out we lied but he’s willing to take his chances he doesn’t care about insurance he knows i hate insurance companies myself he knows i have total contempt for them and their tall buildings they put up in downtown los angeles the truth is i’m glad he’s only ten not eleven when i wouldn’t have a chance when i would have to get my ass on a burro pointing straight down it isn’t so much healthy fear and a wish to preserve my life it is that i know beyond the slightest doubt the part of my anatomy most directly involved with the burro wouldn’t be able to tolerate four or more hours on the back of a moving beast of no great intelligence knowing that beast would probably not of its own free will have chosen to do this either the burro would be coerced under duress i know my rear is not in shape for it i know it i would be in agony of sore aching screaming muscles in ten minutes’ time and i wouldn’t be able to get out of the saddle it is a formula for torture i tell my son no i can’t lie about your age not today try it he says try it he’s telling me he’ll respect me more as a mother if i just try to lie on his behalf and i understand what he’s saying i understand how much he wants to go down that narrow path twisting down for literally miles how he doesn’t give a thought to what his own bottom will feel like he doesn’t have to he knows his happiness will more than compensate for any physical discomfort if he even stops to think about that aspect of what he is proposing his arguments fizzle down to nothing because it is not his age that is the crucial concern it is the aspect of my anatomy that knows its limits that has not been designed for this and doesn’t want to be initiated into burro riding beginning with a monumental trip hairpins straight down for two terrifying miles no i won’t go no we won’t go and that is that but he won’t take no for an answer and he keeps at me watching the lucky ones get on their animals looking at me accusingly i know i have the insurance company and all the regulations on my side i have everything i’ve always despised and flouted whenever i could and he knows it my integrity takes the long fall i am not going to tell him it’s my anatomy the fact is also i would probably get on a burro whose name is jennie and she would somehow put her left foot down in such a way that she would for a moment lose her balance and fail to regain it and we would descend together off the trail rapidly disappearing and the buzzards would begin to circle the mist would rise and a rainbow would become our epitaph i don’t want my son to lose his mother that way forget it i tell him i’m not getting on a burro we go into the bright angel lodge and order trout with green beans mixed with toasted slivers of almonds everything is beautiful and tastes great he glares at me in a friendly manner he knows he is defeated he simply doesn’t have the arsenal of arguments to deal with my stubbornness i know he is thinking about what it will be like to be eleven to qualify legally he’s thinking what it will be like to be grownup to be an adult to be free to make his own decisions to be able to deal with the grand canyon on his own terms he sees himself on that burro going downhill through spectacular scenery that night after the ranger talks about the north side of the canyon again he urges me we really should go there it’s obviously the most interesting side and fewer people go there and it is like canada and can we go? i tell him i take out our maps and i show him look i say crow flying it is twelve miles straight across but for us it’s two hundred miles do you realize that? it’s a two hundred-mile drive through the desert we have to loop around this way he smiles at me he knows i can’t say no this time he smiles his smile of sweet victory the next day we are driving by dome-shaped dirt-colored hogans in the desert we are driving through the kaibab plateau of utah and it does look like canada
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